For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
Pool Cue Information
... how to select, characterize, maintain, and use different types of pool cues.
... how to select, characterize, maintain, and use different types of pool cues.
- balance point
- cleaning
- cue tip replacement
- dent removal
- elevation effects
- "feel," "hit," "feedback," and "playability"
- ferrule
- jump cue
- laminated shafts
- low-squirt (low-deflection or LD) shafts
- advantages
- disadvantages
- getting more spin
- squirt (cue ball deflection) comparison among various cues
- masse cue
- natural pivot length
- "squirt," "deflection," "stiffness"
- types and tapers
- vibration
- weight
What is the "balance point" of a cue, and does it affect shot performance?
A cue's balance point is its center of gravity, which is the point at which you can balance the cue (e.g., if you support it on a finger). Obviously, the balance point needs to be in front of the grip hand; otherwise, the front of the cue would lift up off an open bridge. Other than that, the balance point is mostly unimportant (except for personal preference based on "feel"). The balance point certainly does not impact shot effectiveness, even for follow shots with an open bridge. The CB is long gone before the bridge even feels the effect of the tip-CB collision, as demonstrated in part 2 of the following video:
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice (part 1)(YouTube)
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice (part 2)(YouTube)
Now, a shaft that is heavy on the front end (moving the balance point forward) will affect cue ball deflection, which does affect shots with sidespin. For more info, see the squirt endmass resource page.
A cue's balance point is its center of gravity, which is the point at which you can balance the cue (e.g., if you support it on a finger). Obviously, the balance point needs to be in front of the grip hand; otherwise, the front of the cue would lift up off an open bridge. Other than that, the balance point is mostly unimportant (except for personal preference based on "feel"). The balance point certainly does not impact shot effectiveness, even for follow shots with an open bridge. The CB is long gone before the bridge even feels the effect of the tip-CB collision, as demonstrated in part 2 of the following video:
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice (part 1)(YouTube)
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice (part 2)(YouTube)
Now, a shaft that is heavy on the front end (moving the balance point forward) will affect cue ball deflection, which does affect shots with sidespin. For more info, see the squirt endmass resource page.
How do you clean and maintain a cue?
Wiping with a damp rag and rubbing dry with a dry rag usually does the trick fairly well, especially if done regularly. Mr. Clean (or generic brand) Magic Eraser (dry or slightly damp) also does a very good job.
from JoeW:
I have been cleaning cues for many years and have tried many systems because I like a clean stick. About one year ago someone mentioned trying Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser. You can buy these in most any grocery store. I have found there is nothing better to return a cue stick to a like new condition.
Dampen the sponge like Magic Eraser and wipe down the cue including the ferrule. Wipe the excess moisture (there should be very little) and the grime off the cue with a cotton towel.
You can use a dollar bill to burnish the stick if you want to be like the old time pool players.
The best way to slick the cue that I have found is to use an old piece of leather. Could be a piece cut from a belt, the tongue of a shoe or whatever. Soft natural leather is all that is needed.
Wind the leather around the cue and move it as fast as you can up and down the first 18 inches or so. This will heat up and seal the cue. It is almost ready to use.
Wet the edge of the cue tip liberally with saliva and then burnish this with a dollar bill or the back of a piece of emery cloth (that is what I use). This will make the tip look nice but more importantly it will help to harden it and it will be less likely to mushroom.
from Majic:
I smooth the shaft after using the magic eraser and burnish it. I also use a dry film lubricant afterwards and this helps seal as well as provide a slick surface. Some people I know use Rain-X. RZ-50 made by Dupont is a clear product just to mention a couple. If you decide to experiment with other products just be certain is doesn't dry with a white film.
From eb_in_nc:
There's a product on the market called Q-Wiz. It's a double sided pad, the one side for roughing, the other for polishing. It is a high tech micro abrasive that won't burn through the finish and reduce the diameter of the cue. I've been using it for one year and love how it works. It's also washable and reusable.
Wiping with a damp rag and rubbing dry with a dry rag usually does the trick fairly well, especially if done regularly. Mr. Clean (or generic brand) Magic Eraser (dry or slightly damp) also does a very good job.
from JoeW:
I have been cleaning cues for many years and have tried many systems because I like a clean stick. About one year ago someone mentioned trying Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser. You can buy these in most any grocery store. I have found there is nothing better to return a cue stick to a like new condition.
Dampen the sponge like Magic Eraser and wipe down the cue including the ferrule. Wipe the excess moisture (there should be very little) and the grime off the cue with a cotton towel.
You can use a dollar bill to burnish the stick if you want to be like the old time pool players.
The best way to slick the cue that I have found is to use an old piece of leather. Could be a piece cut from a belt, the tongue of a shoe or whatever. Soft natural leather is all that is needed.
Wind the leather around the cue and move it as fast as you can up and down the first 18 inches or so. This will heat up and seal the cue. It is almost ready to use.
Wet the edge of the cue tip liberally with saliva and then burnish this with a dollar bill or the back of a piece of emery cloth (that is what I use). This will make the tip look nice but more importantly it will help to harden it and it will be less likely to mushroom.
from Majic:
I smooth the shaft after using the magic eraser and burnish it. I also use a dry film lubricant afterwards and this helps seal as well as provide a slick surface. Some people I know use Rain-X. RZ-50 made by Dupont is a clear product just to mention a couple. If you decide to experiment with other products just be certain is doesn't dry with a white film.
From eb_in_nc:
There's a product on the market called Q-Wiz. It's a double sided pad, the one side for roughing, the other for polishing. It is a high tech micro abrasive that won't burn through the finish and reduce the diameter of the cue. I've been using it for one year and love how it works. It's also washable and reusable.
How do you repair a dent in a wood shaft?
If the dent really is a "dent" (where the wood fibers have been compressed) and not a "gouge" (where wood has been removed), try putting a drop of water on the dent (e.g., with a cue tip) and let it sit and dry over night. This usually helps swell the fibers back up, restoring the shaft close to the pre-dent condition. If it doesn't work completely the first time, try again. If the dent pops out too much, lightly sand with very-fine-grit sand paper.
If the dent really is a "dent" (where the wood fibers have been compressed) and not a "gouge" (where wood has been removed), try putting a drop of water on the dent (e.g., with a cue tip) and let it sit and dry over night. This usually helps swell the fibers back up, restoring the shaft close to the pre-dent condition. If it doesn't work completely the first time, try again. If the dent pops out too much, lightly sand with very-fine-grit sand paper.
What effects does cue elevation have on a shot, and how should I change my technique when jacking up the cue?
When you "jack up" your cue, by raising the butt (back) end, several bad things can happen, including:
Items 1 and 2 above are often due to one's vision center not being aligned properly when elevated. This is a very common problem. One approach to solving this problem is aiming the shot in a level-cue position and then elevate the cue from this aim (like a lot of people do when aiming jump shots). You can also glance down at the cue in the elevated position to make sure your vision center is over the cue.
Some of the technique advice normally suggested for jump shots also applies to other elevated-cue shots. For example, your stance and grip can be much more comfortable if you bend your bridge arm and choke up on the cue, allowing you to get closer to the cue and CB, also enabling a more comfortable and consistent stroke. It also helps to make sure you have pressure on your bridge hand and keep it as still as possible.
When jacking up the cue, one must be aware of the effects on effective tip offset (and the amount of spin imparted). Some people have trouble perceiving this effect. The following diagram from "Draw Shot Physics - Part IV: cue elevation effects" (Download) (BD, July, 2009) illustrates the concept:
When you "jack up" your cue, by raising the butt (back) end, several bad things can happen, including:
- If you don’t hit exactly on the centerline of the CB (either intentional or not), the CB will swerve and go off line more (see NV 4.14 and HSV B.10 (YouTube)). Some people have more success getting a center-ball hit on an elevated-cue shot by focusing on the CB (instead of the OB, as normal) during the final stroke.
- It can be more difficult to visually align the cue with the desired aiming line of the shot.
- More elevation causes the CB to hop; and with more speed, the CB will hop over a longer distance and possibly hit the OB while still bouncing. If the CB hits the OB while airborne, the cut angle will be changed and you might miss the shot (see jump shot over cut).
- The more you elevate the cue with draw shots, the less spin the CB will have when it gets to the OB, for a given tip offset and cue speed (for more info, see "Draw Shot Physics - Part IV: cue elevation effects" (Download) - BD, July, 2009). However, elevation does help create "quicker" draw (for more info, see "Draw Shot Physics - Part III: spin ratio" (Download) - BD, June, 2009 and "Draw Shot Physics - Part IV: cue elevation effects" (Download) - BD, July, 2009).
Items 1 and 2 above are often due to one's vision center not being aligned properly when elevated. This is a very common problem. One approach to solving this problem is aiming the shot in a level-cue position and then elevate the cue from this aim (like a lot of people do when aiming jump shots). You can also glance down at the cue in the elevated position to make sure your vision center is over the cue.
Some of the technique advice normally suggested for jump shots also applies to other elevated-cue shots. For example, your stance and grip can be much more comfortable if you bend your bridge arm and choke up on the cue, allowing you to get closer to the cue and CB, also enabling a more comfortable and consistent stroke. It also helps to make sure you have pressure on your bridge hand and keep it as still as possible.
When jacking up the cue, one must be aware of the effects on effective tip offset (and the amount of spin imparted). Some people have trouble perceiving this effect. The following diagram from "Draw Shot Physics - Part IV: cue elevation effects" (Download) (BD, July, 2009) illustrates the concept:
Is it possible to have the cue perfectly level at a pool table (i.e., is it possible to not have the cue elevated)?
No. Because the cue must clear over the rails, the cue must be elevated some on practically all pool shots. Here's an illustration from Patrick Johnson (from AZB post (external forum-link)) that illustrates why:
No. Because the cue must clear over the rails, the cue must be elevated some on practically all pool shots. Here's an illustration from Patrick Johnson (from AZB post (external forum-link)) that illustrates why:
The cue must be elevated some to clear the rail cushion and hit the ball low enough to prevent a miscue. The cue must be elevated even more when the CB is farther from the cushion (and a fatter part of the cue is over the rail) and/or when a below-center hit is used. For example, see: TP A.3 - Minimum cue elevation required for a head-spot-to-foot-spot center-ball-hit shot. (Download)
What do "feel," "hit," "feedback," and "playability" really mean in relation to a cue, and do they affect a shot?
These are qualitative phrases used to describe the force and shock (impulse) a player feels and the vibration and sound a player hears during and after (but mostly after) the cue tip hits the cue ball.
The "feel" and "sound" of a hit are affected by shot speed and how far the tip hits off center. They are also affected by:
The shock and vibration is felt and the sound is heard after the CB is already gone, so they have no direct effect on the outcome of a shot; although, some people claim the "feel" is important to getting good "feedback" on the shot (indicating if the CB was struck well with the appropriate speed), but not all players place importance on this. To many, what the CB does is "feedback" enough.
A cue's flex or vibration can't have much to do with the physics between the tip and CB during the extremely brief (approximately 0.001 second) impact time. Most of the flex and vibration occurs well after the CB is gone. For example, see:
HSV A.25 - Cue deflection and vibration due to firm stroke with english
and
HSV A.76a - close-up of tip during off-center hit (YouTube)
The vibration (see other videos here) affects the "feel" of the cue, but it doesn't have much (if any) effect on the physics between the tip and CB.
Regardless of the physics, there are many "qualitative intangibles" ("feel," "hit," "sound," "feedback," "aesthetics," etc.) that might be psychologically important to a player even if the characteristics might not have any direct effect on the outcome of a shot.
These are qualitative phrases used to describe the force and shock (impulse) a player feels and the vibration and sound a player hears during and after (but mostly after) the cue tip hits the cue ball.
The "feel" and "sound" of a hit are affected by shot speed and how far the tip hits off center. They are also affected by:
- tip type, hardness, and efficiency
- ferrule type and material
- shaft material, design, size, and taper
- joint material, design, and construction
- butt material, design, and construction (including the wrap and end bumper)
- shaft straightness
- tip quality and shape
- tip diameter and shaft taper, especially if a closed bridge is used
- cue weight, balance, and mass distribution
- the amount of endmass, which determines the amount of squirt (CB deflection)
The shock and vibration is felt and the sound is heard after the CB is already gone, so they have no direct effect on the outcome of a shot; although, some people claim the "feel" is important to getting good "feedback" on the shot (indicating if the CB was struck well with the appropriate speed), but not all players place importance on this. To many, what the CB does is "feedback" enough.
A cue's flex or vibration can't have much to do with the physics between the tip and CB during the extremely brief (approximately 0.001 second) impact time. Most of the flex and vibration occurs well after the CB is gone. For example, see:
HSV A.25 - Cue deflection and vibration due to firm stroke with english
and
HSV A.76a - close-up of tip during off-center hit (YouTube)
The vibration (see other videos here) affects the "feel" of the cue, but it doesn't have much (if any) effect on the physics between the tip and CB.
Regardless of the physics, there are many "qualitative intangibles" ("feel," "hit," "sound," "feedback," "aesthetics," etc.) that might be psychologically important to a player even if the characteristics might not have any direct effect on the outcome of a shot.
What is the purpose for the ferrule?
The main purpose for the ferrule is to protect the wood on the end of the shaft. A ferule does allow one to change the tip without damaging the shaft wood, and it might help distribute the impact forces to the shaft during tip impact. The ferrule also affects the look, feel ("hit"), and sound of the cue. A smaller and lighter ferrule results in less squirt (since the ferrule material is typically heavier than wood).
from RRfireblade:
Purpose for a ferrule:
* "Intended" to protect end grain.
* Better base for adhering tip.
* Allows for better facing of surface during a re-tipping, plus no wood removal to shorten shaft length over time.
* Protects shaft from poor chalking technique.
* Acts as a buffer to help retain shaft diameter during 'maintenance'.
* Style and appearance. Same as any other ring work.
* Tradition.
* Really nothing to be gained by not having one. (end mass can be equaled or even reduced with the right ferrule material)
from Cornerman (concerning why a ferrule is used):
Tradition. It's a good bet that a ferrule pre-dates the tip. Chalk pre-dates the tip which means shafts were subject to split ends and needed protection or repair. With a tip and pad, no ferrule is needed IMO.
from ShootingArts:
... there are almost endless materials to make ferrules out of including the pool balls themselves. Ferrules can be lighter than the wood, heavier than the wood, stronger than the wood, weaker than the wood, stiffer than the wood, more flexible than the wood, on and on. In addition the adhesive use to hold the ferrule on may offset the tiny difference in weight savings of some ferrules.
The ferrule was developed long before we had the quality adhesives that we have now. The pads we use now serve the same purpose the ferule once did, to keep the wood from splintering. Note that ivory ferules normally have a pad installed to prevent them from splintering.
Ferrules are decorative, they may help us aim by giving us an easier to see point to focus on, and they can be chosen to serve a purpose, mostly giving a softer hit. A hard ferrule stiffens the hit compared to a soft ferule but I'm pretty skeptical of a hard ferule and 29" of wood giving an detectably stiffer hit than 30" of the same wood. What the hard ferrule may do is change the sound of the hit a little.
The main purpose for the ferrule is to protect the wood on the end of the shaft. A ferule does allow one to change the tip without damaging the shaft wood, and it might help distribute the impact forces to the shaft during tip impact. The ferrule also affects the look, feel ("hit"), and sound of the cue. A smaller and lighter ferrule results in less squirt (since the ferrule material is typically heavier than wood).
from RRfireblade:
Purpose for a ferrule:
* "Intended" to protect end grain.
* Better base for adhering tip.
* Allows for better facing of surface during a re-tipping, plus no wood removal to shorten shaft length over time.
* Protects shaft from poor chalking technique.
* Acts as a buffer to help retain shaft diameter during 'maintenance'.
* Style and appearance. Same as any other ring work.
* Tradition.
* Really nothing to be gained by not having one. (end mass can be equaled or even reduced with the right ferrule material)
from Cornerman (concerning why a ferrule is used):
Tradition. It's a good bet that a ferrule pre-dates the tip. Chalk pre-dates the tip which means shafts were subject to split ends and needed protection or repair. With a tip and pad, no ferrule is needed IMO.
from ShootingArts:
... there are almost endless materials to make ferrules out of including the pool balls themselves. Ferrules can be lighter than the wood, heavier than the wood, stronger than the wood, weaker than the wood, stiffer than the wood, more flexible than the wood, on and on. In addition the adhesive use to hold the ferrule on may offset the tiny difference in weight savings of some ferrules.
The ferrule was developed long before we had the quality adhesives that we have now. The pads we use now serve the same purpose the ferule once did, to keep the wood from splintering. Note that ivory ferules normally have a pad installed to prevent them from splintering.
Ferrules are decorative, they may help us aim by giving us an easier to see point to focus on, and they can be chosen to serve a purpose, mostly giving a softer hit. A hard ferrule stiffens the hit compared to a soft ferule but I'm pretty skeptical of a hard ferule and 29" of wood giving an detectably stiffer hit than 30" of the same wood. What the hard ferrule may do is change the sound of the hit a little.
What is different about a jump cue?
Jump cues are shorter and lighter, with a hard tip (e.g., phenolic). All of these features make it easier to get more rebound height off the table slate with a legal hit.
Jump cues are shorter and lighter, with a hard tip (e.g., phenolic). All of these features make it easier to get more rebound height off the table slate with a legal hit.
Why are some shafts (e.g., some LD shafts) laminated, consisting of layers or radial segments glued together?
Laminated shafts can have better strength and consistency with lower-quality cuts of wood. They can also have better dimensional stability, being less prone to warp over time. Also, shafts of the same brand and model will tend to be more consistent because there is less chance for wood grain variance, as compared to a solid piece of wood.
Laminated shafts can have better strength and consistency with lower-quality cuts of wood. They can also have better dimensional stability, being less prone to warp over time. Also, shafts of the same brand and model will tend to be more consistent because there is less chance for wood grain variance, as compared to a solid piece of wood.
Can a low-deflection (LD) shaft help my game?
An LD shaft has less "endmass" than a regular shaft. As a result, it creates less cue ball squirt. I prefer the phrase "low squirt" to "low deflection" or "LD" (for more info, go here).
"Squirt - Part V: low-squirt cues" (Download) (BD, December, 2007) summarizes the results of a poll concerning whether or not a low-squirt shaft helps and who it helps. I present and discuss the results in the article. I also present a logical analysis with a graphical interpretation to try to explain how a low-squirt shaft can help. The assumptions of the analysis are similar to what Shepard describes in an example in his Everything you Always Wanted to Know About Cue Ball Squirt, but Were Afraid to Ask article (Download).
BTW, here's the last line of the article: my answer to the question of whether a low-squirt shaft can help is: yes, especially if you believe it can help you. The mind is a powerful thing. I use a low-squirt cue and I think I play better with it; therefore, I probably do. I wrote this because the analysis shows only a small expected increase in accuracy with a low-squirt cue for a player with decent squirt knowledge/intuition. Although, a novice player who knows nothing about squirt and how to compensate for it can definitely benefit (a small amount) from a low-squirt shaft, especially when they use english (intentionally or not). The CB will go closer to where they are aiming. That's usually a good thing. Now, if the tip is aligned center-ball to begin with and the unintentional english is applied with a "swoop" (non straight) stroke, whichever cue has a natural pivot length (or effective pivot length) best matched to the player's bridge length will be the best at reducing the effects of squirt (or the net result of squirt, swerve, and throw).
An LD shaft has less "endmass" than a regular shaft. As a result, it creates less cue ball squirt. I prefer the phrase "low squirt" to "low deflection" or "LD" (for more info, go here).
"Squirt - Part V: low-squirt cues" (Download) (BD, December, 2007) summarizes the results of a poll concerning whether or not a low-squirt shaft helps and who it helps. I present and discuss the results in the article. I also present a logical analysis with a graphical interpretation to try to explain how a low-squirt shaft can help. The assumptions of the analysis are similar to what Shepard describes in an example in his Everything you Always Wanted to Know About Cue Ball Squirt, but Were Afraid to Ask article (Download).
BTW, here's the last line of the article: my answer to the question of whether a low-squirt shaft can help is: yes, especially if you believe it can help you. The mind is a powerful thing. I use a low-squirt cue and I think I play better with it; therefore, I probably do. I wrote this because the analysis shows only a small expected increase in accuracy with a low-squirt cue for a player with decent squirt knowledge/intuition. Although, a novice player who knows nothing about squirt and how to compensate for it can definitely benefit (a small amount) from a low-squirt shaft, especially when they use english (intentionally or not). The CB will go closer to where they are aiming. That's usually a good thing. Now, if the tip is aligned center-ball to begin with and the unintentional english is applied with a "swoop" (non straight) stroke, whichever cue has a natural pivot length (or effective pivot length) best matched to the player's bridge length will be the best at reducing the effects of squirt (or the net result of squirt, swerve, and throw).
Here is a summary of possible advantages of low-squirt shafts:
- The CB will come off the cue tip closer to the aiming line when using sidespin. Therefore, not as much aim adjustment or compensation is required when using sidespin. For people who aren't good at compensating for squirt, this can be very helpful.
- A player might be more consistent with shots with sidespin since the possible range of squirt is smaller than with regular shafts. Basically, if there is less squirt then less aiming adjustment is required. For more info, see "Squirt - Part V: low-squirt cues" (Download) (BD, December, 2007).
- Back-hand and/or front-hand english (BHE and FHE) aim-and-pivot aim compensation methods might be more suited to a player's natural bridge length with a low-squirt shaft.
- It can be possible to get slightly more spin on the CB with a low-squirt shaft, but this effect is very small. For more info, see getting more spin.
- Many low-squirt shafts are constructed as a radial laminate (long wedge-shaped sections glued together and then turned down on a lathe), so they are more likely to hold their straightness over time (i.e., they are less likely to warp). If the wood laminates are chosen carefully (e.g., with a certain grain orientations), this might help improve strength. Also, this could help with consistency from one shaft to another of the same model. Some people think the radial consistency also helps create a more consistent "hit," regardless of the orientation (twist angle) of the cue, but this effect is questionable. Some people think radial consistency also helps create more consistent squirt, but that effect is also questionable (see "Squirt - Part VII: cue test machine results" (Download) - BD, February, 2008).
- The CB will come off the cue tip closer to the aiming line when using sidespin. Therefore, not as much aim adjustment or compensation is required when using sidespin. For people who aren't good at compensating for squirt, this can be very helpful.
- A player might be more consistent with shots with sidespin since the possible range of squirt is smaller than with regular shafts. Basically, if there is less squirt then less aiming adjustment is required. For more info, see "Squirt - Part V: low-squirt cues" (Download) (BD, December, 2007).
- Back-hand and/or front-hand english (BHE and FHE) aim-and-pivot aim compensation methods might be more suited to a player's natural bridge length with a low-squirt shaft.
- It can be possible to get slightly more spin on the CB with a low-squirt shaft, but this effect is very small. For more info, see getting more spin.
- Many low-squirt shafts are constructed as a radial laminate (long wedge-shaped sections glued together and then turned down on a lathe), so they are more likely to hold their straightness over time (i.e., they are less likely to warp). If the wood laminates are chosen carefully (e.g., with a certain grain orientations), this might help improve strength. Also, this could help with consistency from one shaft to another of the same model. Some people think the radial consistency also helps create a more consistent "hit," regardless of the orientation (twist angle) of the cue, but this effect is questionable. Some people think radial consistency also helps create more consistent squirt, but that effect is also questionable (see "Squirt - Part VII: cue test machine results" (Download) - BD, February, 2008).
Low-squirt shafts might not be good for everybody. Here are what I consider some disadvantages of low-squirt shafts:
- A "low-squirt" cue can be expensive.
- If somebody is used to compensating aim with a higher-squirt cue, it might be difficult to adjust to the lower-squirt cue.
- Some people might not like the "feel" or "hit" or "sound" or "look" of a low-squirt shaft.
- Some people might not like the small shaft diameter or taper of some low-squirt shafts, especially if a closed bridge is used.
- A low-squirt shaft might not be as mechanically sound over long-term use (i.e., the shaft end is not as strong and tough).
- If someone hits lots of low-speed sidespin shots, and he or she is used to a higher squirt helping to cancel some or all of the swerve, then he or she might have trouble adjusting to a low-squirt shaft (where more swerve compensation would be required for these shots).
- Low-squirt shafts have long "natural pivot lengths," which might not be appropriate for either BHE or FHE on certain shots. Therefore, there is no simple aim-and-pivot squirt-compensation method ... a "combination" of BHE and FHE will be required. For more info, see back-hand and front-hand english.
- If you have a short bridge length, a low squirt cue could result in more directional error (as compared to a regular squirt cue with a shorter pivot length) due to any unintentional pivot during your stroke.
- If you are used to a low-squirt cue, and you find yourself in a place without your cue, where only regular-squirt cues are available, you might not play very well (until you can adjust).
- A low-squirt cue will not make it easier to compensate for swerve and throw. To aim shots with sidespin, many factors need to be taken into consideration. For more info, see aim compensation for squirt, swerve, and throw.
from Patrick Johnson:
Each increment of tip offset equals more squirt with a high squirt shaft than the same increment with a low squirt shaft - so the same tip placement error has greater effect with a high-squirt shaft.
The effect of tip placement errors is higher or lower for two shafts in the same ratio as the squirt produced by the two shafts. If a shaft produces 1/3 more squirt, then tip placement errors have 1/3 more effect.
What is the difference between a low-deflection shaft and a low-squirt shaft?
Nothing. They are the same. A low-squirt shaft creates less ("low") cue-ball squirt but actually results in large ("high") cue deflection (because the end of the shaft is lighter and usually more flexible ... so it deflects away from the CB more with an off-center hit). So a "low"-deflection shaft actually has "high" deflection!!!
This is why I and others prefer the term: "low-squirt shaft" because it results in less CB squirt. A "low"-deflection shaft has low CB deflection, but high cue deflection. Also, what the shaft is doing (deflecting) is not important. What the CB is doing is what counts. The CB squirts less with a low-squirt shaft.
- A "low-squirt" cue can be expensive.
- If somebody is used to compensating aim with a higher-squirt cue, it might be difficult to adjust to the lower-squirt cue.
- Some people might not like the "feel" or "hit" or "sound" or "look" of a low-squirt shaft.
- Some people might not like the small shaft diameter or taper of some low-squirt shafts, especially if a closed bridge is used.
- A low-squirt shaft might not be as mechanically sound over long-term use (i.e., the shaft end is not as strong and tough).
- If someone hits lots of low-speed sidespin shots, and he or she is used to a higher squirt helping to cancel some or all of the swerve, then he or she might have trouble adjusting to a low-squirt shaft (where more swerve compensation would be required for these shots).
- Low-squirt shafts have long "natural pivot lengths," which might not be appropriate for either BHE or FHE on certain shots. Therefore, there is no simple aim-and-pivot squirt-compensation method ... a "combination" of BHE and FHE will be required. For more info, see back-hand and front-hand english.
- If you have a short bridge length, a low squirt cue could result in more directional error (as compared to a regular squirt cue with a shorter pivot length) due to any unintentional pivot during your stroke.
- If you are used to a low-squirt cue, and you find yourself in a place without your cue, where only regular-squirt cues are available, you might not play very well (until you can adjust).
- A low-squirt cue will not make it easier to compensate for swerve and throw. To aim shots with sidespin, many factors need to be taken into consideration. For more info, see aim compensation for squirt, swerve, and throw.
from Patrick Johnson:
Each increment of tip offset equals more squirt with a high squirt shaft than the same increment with a low squirt shaft - so the same tip placement error has greater effect with a high-squirt shaft.
The effect of tip placement errors is higher or lower for two shafts in the same ratio as the squirt produced by the two shafts. If a shaft produces 1/3 more squirt, then tip placement errors have 1/3 more effect.
What is the difference between a low-deflection shaft and a low-squirt shaft?
Nothing. They are the same. A low-squirt shaft creates less ("low") cue-ball squirt but actually results in large ("high") cue deflection (because the end of the shaft is lighter and usually more flexible ... so it deflects away from the CB more with an off-center hit). So a "low"-deflection shaft actually has "high" deflection!!!
This is why I and others prefer the term: "low-squirt shaft" because it results in less CB squirt. A "low"-deflection shaft has low CB deflection, but high cue deflection. Also, what the shaft is doing (deflecting) is not important. What the CB is doing is what counts. The CB squirts less with a low-squirt shaft.
Does a low-squirt shaft allow me to put more spin on the cue ball?
The short answer is: No.
Here's a longer answer:
Per "Squirt - Part II: experimental results" (Download) (BD, September, 2007), a common low-squirt shaft has a squirt angle of about 1.8 degrees at close to maximum tip offset, as compared to 2.5 degrees for a typical regular-squirt cue. So a low-squirt shaft offers only about 30% less squirt than a typical regular-squirt cue.
Per TP B.7 (Download), if you calculate the effective offsets using the squirt angles above, the percentage change in effective tip offset and the resulting spin is 2-3%, so a low-squirt shaft does not give you much gain in spin-generating capability.
Now, when comparing cues and/or tips, it is important that the actual tip offset is the same for both. If the tip size and shape are different, and one uses "tips of english" as a measure, perceived tip offset can be very different than actual offset, resulting in significant differences in the amount of spin. See the "tips" of english resource page for more illustrations and explanations.
Also, with draw shots, if someone is accustomed to a larger shaft that is close to touching the cloth at CB address, and they place a smaller diameter shaft in that same apparent position (close to the cloth), the effective tip contact point offset on the ball will be lower.
For more info on LD shaft spin effects, see:
from Patrick Johnson:
Can one cue stick produce more spin than another? No.
The force of a stick's momentum and the force produced by its squirt are combined into a single "force vector" that points through the CB in the direction the CB will travel. So when a stick is pivoted at its Squirt Pivot Point to hit the CB at a given spot, it produces the same "force vector" as any other stick doing the same thing, no matter what its angle of approach (the same as a theoretical unpivoted "no-squirt" cue).
The CB can't tell which direction a stick is pointed - it can only "feel" the direction and magnitude of this "force vector". And since every stick produces the same "force vector", every stick "feels" the same to the CB and the CB reacts the same way to each.
The short answer is: No.
Here's a longer answer:
Per "Squirt - Part II: experimental results" (Download) (BD, September, 2007), a common low-squirt shaft has a squirt angle of about 1.8 degrees at close to maximum tip offset, as compared to 2.5 degrees for a typical regular-squirt cue. So a low-squirt shaft offers only about 30% less squirt than a typical regular-squirt cue.
Per TP B.7 (Download), if you calculate the effective offsets using the squirt angles above, the percentage change in effective tip offset and the resulting spin is 2-3%, so a low-squirt shaft does not give you much gain in spin-generating capability.
Now, when comparing cues and/or tips, it is important that the actual tip offset is the same for both. If the tip size and shape are different, and one uses "tips of english" as a measure, perceived tip offset can be very different than actual offset, resulting in significant differences in the amount of spin. See the "tips" of english resource page for more illustrations and explanations.
Also, with draw shots, if someone is accustomed to a larger shaft that is close to touching the cloth at CB address, and they place a smaller diameter shaft in that same apparent position (close to the cloth), the effective tip contact point offset on the ball will be lower.
For more info on LD shaft spin effects, see:
from Patrick Johnson:
Can one cue stick produce more spin than another? No.
The force of a stick's momentum and the force produced by its squirt are combined into a single "force vector" that points through the CB in the direction the CB will travel. So when a stick is pivoted at its Squirt Pivot Point to hit the CB at a given spot, it produces the same "force vector" as any other stick doing the same thing, no matter what its angle of approach (the same as a theoretical unpivoted "no-squirt" cue).
The CB can't tell which direction a stick is pointed - it can only "feel" the direction and magnitude of this "force vector". And since every stick produces the same "force vector", every stick "feels" the same to the CB and the CB reacts the same way to each.
What is different about a masse cue?
Masse cues are typically shorter, heavier, and stiffer, and typically have a larger shaft diameter and tip. The shorter length is to improve handling and reduce overhead clearance problems. The extra strength and stiffness are for durability and better action. The extra weight can also help you get more action with less effort.
Masse cues are typically shorter, heavier, and stiffer, and typically have a larger shaft diameter and tip. The shorter length is to improve handling and reduce overhead clearance problems. The extra strength and stiffness are for durability and better action. The extra weight can also help you get more action with less effort.
How do I determine the natural pivot length for my shaft, and why should I?
"Squirt - Part IV: BHE, FHE, and pivot-length calibration" (Download) (BD, November, 2007) explains and illustrates back-hand english (BHE), front-hand english (FHE), a cue's natural pivot length, and advice for selecting a break cue. Here's a procedure recommended by Colin Colenso for measuring natural pivot length:
Place OB about 6 inches from a corner pocket. Align CB in a straight line with this about 5-6 feet away. Align to pot straight, pivot and hit the shot near maximum speed to ensure insignificant swerve. Adjust bridge length until you consistently have the CB hitting pretty much at the original aim.
It's pretty obvious when you're hitting this shot within 1/10th inch of center which allows you to narrow down the intrinsic pivot point to less than an inch. The CB would spin on the spot if the OB was hit about 1/20th inch off center. This is plenty of accuracy over 5-6 feet. Pretty much as accurate as one could hope to aim the initial pot.
A demonstration can be found in this clip from Disc II of The Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
"Squirt - Part IV: BHE, FHE, and pivot-length calibration" (Download) (BD, November, 2007) explains and illustrates back-hand english (BHE), front-hand english (FHE), a cue's natural pivot length, and advice for selecting a break cue. Here's a procedure recommended by Colin Colenso for measuring natural pivot length:
Place OB about 6 inches from a corner pocket. Align CB in a straight line with this about 5-6 feet away. Align to pot straight, pivot and hit the shot near maximum speed to ensure insignificant swerve. Adjust bridge length until you consistently have the CB hitting pretty much at the original aim.
It's pretty obvious when you're hitting this shot within 1/10th inch of center which allows you to narrow down the intrinsic pivot point to less than an inch. The CB would spin on the spot if the OB was hit about 1/20th inch off center. This is plenty of accuracy over 5-6 feet. Pretty much as accurate as one could hope to aim the initial pot.
A demonstration can be found in this clip from Disc II of The Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots: (external web-link)
"Squirt - Part IV: BHE, FHE, and pivot-length calibration" (Download) (BD, November, 2007) also presents a simple procedure for measuring the natural pivot length for a cue; although, throw is more of a factor in these measurements. The procedure in the article yields more of an "effective pivot length," which compensates for both squirt and throw.
TP B.1 (Download) uses physics and math to predict the natural pivot length for a cue from squirt angle measurements. Here are some of the conclusions supported by the analysis:
- Squirt angle varies nearly linearly with tip offset, and tip offset varies nearly linearly with cue pivot angle. This is what makes the BHE and FHE methods effective, provided swerve and throw are also taken into consideration.
- A cue's natural pivot length does vary a little with both tip offset and tip shape (radius), so when comparing different cues with experimental measurements, it is important to use the same tip shape and the same amount of tip offset (english) for each cue.
- Cue pivot lengths reported by Platinum Billiards seem to be a little low. They report a range from 8 inches (for a "high-squirt" cue) to 14 inches (for a "low-squirt" cue). Although, numbers from Colin's procedure (see above) seem to back up this lower range.
- Expected cue pivot lengths reported in Ron Shepard's 2001 paper "Everything you Always Wanted to Know About Cue Ball Squirt, but Were Afraid to Ask" (Download) appear to be much too large. He reports a range from 10 inches (for a "high-squirt" cue) to 50 inches (for a "low-squirt" cue).
For more information about squirt (AKA "cue ball deflection") and how it is related to the natural pivot length of a cue, see the squirt (cue ball deflection) resource page.
from Patrick Johnson:
The traditional "aim-and-pivot" squirt test keeps the balls at the same distance and pivots the shaft to different angles by shifting the bridge hand (pivot point) back and forth until the shot is made.
This Simple Squirt Test keeps the shaft aimed at the same two points on the CB and OB while changing the distance between the balls until the shot is made. Changing the distance between the balls while aiming at the same points on them changes the angle of the cue in (hopefully) a more controlled way that can be more accurately measured.
TP B.1 (Download) uses physics and math to predict the natural pivot length for a cue from squirt angle measurements. Here are some of the conclusions supported by the analysis:
- Squirt angle varies nearly linearly with tip offset, and tip offset varies nearly linearly with cue pivot angle. This is what makes the BHE and FHE methods effective, provided swerve and throw are also taken into consideration.
- A cue's natural pivot length does vary a little with both tip offset and tip shape (radius), so when comparing different cues with experimental measurements, it is important to use the same tip shape and the same amount of tip offset (english) for each cue.
- Cue pivot lengths reported by Platinum Billiards seem to be a little low. They report a range from 8 inches (for a "high-squirt" cue) to 14 inches (for a "low-squirt" cue). Although, numbers from Colin's procedure (see above) seem to back up this lower range.
- Expected cue pivot lengths reported in Ron Shepard's 2001 paper "Everything you Always Wanted to Know About Cue Ball Squirt, but Were Afraid to Ask" (Download) appear to be much too large. He reports a range from 10 inches (for a "high-squirt" cue) to 50 inches (for a "low-squirt" cue).
For more information about squirt (AKA "cue ball deflection") and how it is related to the natural pivot length of a cue, see the squirt (cue ball deflection) resource page.
from Patrick Johnson:
The traditional "aim-and-pivot" squirt test keeps the balls at the same distance and pivots the shaft to different angles by shifting the bridge hand (pivot point) back and forth until the shot is made.
This Simple Squirt Test keeps the shaft aimed at the same two points on the CB and OB while changing the distance between the balls until the shot is made. Changing the distance between the balls while aiming at the same points on them changes the angle of the cue in (hopefully) a more controlled way that can be more accurately measured.
(Click to enlarge)
Is there a pivot point for a cue that will compensate for throw and/or swerve in addition to squirt?
Unfortunately, the amount of throw varies with cut angle, shot speed, type of english, amount of topspin or bottom-spin, and ball conditions. Also, swerve depends on shot speed, shot distance, cue elevation, amount and type of sidespin/roll, and ball/cloth conditions. Therefore, it is difficult to predict a required cue pivot point to compensate for anything more than squirt. Maybe this could be done for medium speed shots, at medium distances, with a medium amount of sidespin (with a consistent amount of draw or follow); but otherwise, aim-and-pivot aim compensation alone is not adequate to account for all of the subtleties associated with squirt, swerve, and throw. Having said all of that, aim-and-pivot methods (e.g., BHE and/or FHE) can still be very helpful to many players on many shots.
How much deflection does a cue of given pivot length produce?
from Patrick Johnson:
Knowing your cue's Pivot Length is the basis for a simple method of visualizing squirt correction that can reduce the guesswork.
Pivot Length is the distance from your cue's tip to its Pivot Point, the place to pivot your cue to apply squirt-correcting backhand english. This is because (here's the useful part ->) Pivot Length is the distance the CB travels to be off target by exactly the same distance as your Tip Offset from the CB's center.
That means you should aim your shot one Tip Offset to the side of your target for each Pivot Length between the CB and the OB (minus something for swerve).
Here's a drawing with some detail about how to do that. For illustration it assumes a Pivot Length of exactly 12.5 inches (1 diamond on a 9-foot table), which is probably not an uncommon "high squirt" Pivot Length. Of course, each cue's Pivot Length can be different.
Unfortunately, the amount of throw varies with cut angle, shot speed, type of english, amount of topspin or bottom-spin, and ball conditions. Also, swerve depends on shot speed, shot distance, cue elevation, amount and type of sidespin/roll, and ball/cloth conditions. Therefore, it is difficult to predict a required cue pivot point to compensate for anything more than squirt. Maybe this could be done for medium speed shots, at medium distances, with a medium amount of sidespin (with a consistent amount of draw or follow); but otherwise, aim-and-pivot aim compensation alone is not adequate to account for all of the subtleties associated with squirt, swerve, and throw. Having said all of that, aim-and-pivot methods (e.g., BHE and/or FHE) can still be very helpful to many players on many shots.
How much deflection does a cue of given pivot length produce?
from Patrick Johnson:
Knowing your cue's Pivot Length is the basis for a simple method of visualizing squirt correction that can reduce the guesswork.
Pivot Length is the distance from your cue's tip to its Pivot Point, the place to pivot your cue to apply squirt-correcting backhand english. This is because (here's the useful part ->) Pivot Length is the distance the CB travels to be off target by exactly the same distance as your Tip Offset from the CB's center.
That means you should aim your shot one Tip Offset to the side of your target for each Pivot Length between the CB and the OB (minus something for swerve).
Here's a drawing with some detail about how to do that. For illustration it assumes a Pivot Length of exactly 12.5 inches (1 diamond on a 9-foot table), which is probably not an uncommon "high squirt" Pivot Length. Of course, each cue's Pivot Length can be different.
(Click to enlarge)
How is cue deflection related to ball squirt?
These terms can be confusing and misleading. Here's my summary:
"low-deflection" (LD) shaft
= "low-cue-ball-deflection" shaft =
= "low-squirt" shaft
= "low end-mass" shaft
= usually flexible (AKA "whippy", compliant, not stiff, "like a wet noodle") shaft end
An LD shaft, due to its smaller endmass, is usually whippy close to the tip. This causes the shaft to bend or flex (i.e., "deflect") a lot during an off-center hit, and the low endmass results in less squirt (cue ball "deflection").
I also prefer the term "squirt" over "cue ball deflection." I certainly prefer "low-squirt" over "low-deflection" (because of the ambiguous meaning of "deflection"). I also prefer "small" instead of "low" because that can also be ambiguous. Although, it's not easy to change the terminology people use when it is so ingrained. As long as people are clear, it really doesn't matter. When I hear "low deflection cue," I just assume the implication is "small squirt shaft."
These terms can be confusing and misleading. Here's my summary:
"low-deflection" (LD) shaft
= "low-cue-ball-deflection" shaft =
= "low-squirt" shaft
= "low end-mass" shaft
= usually flexible (AKA "whippy", compliant, not stiff, "like a wet noodle") shaft end
An LD shaft, due to its smaller endmass, is usually whippy close to the tip. This causes the shaft to bend or flex (i.e., "deflect") a lot during an off-center hit, and the low endmass results in less squirt (cue ball "deflection").
I also prefer the term "squirt" over "cue ball deflection." I certainly prefer "low-squirt" over "low-deflection" (because of the ambiguous meaning of "deflection"). I also prefer "small" instead of "low" because that can also be ambiguous. Although, it's not easy to change the terminology people use when it is so ingrained. As long as people are clear, it really doesn't matter. When I hear "low deflection cue," I just assume the implication is "small squirt shaft."
What is different about the different types of cues and shaft tapers?
From Wikipedia's pool shaft page: (external web-link)
Shafts are made with various tapers, the two most common being the pro taper and the European taper. The pro taper has the same diameter from the tip to 30–35 cm (12-14 inches) toward the joint, at which point it begins to widen. The European taper widens continually and smoothly from the ferrule toward the joint. Despite their names, the continually sloping European taper is found in most North American bar and house cues, and not all professional players prefer a straight pro taper on their custom, two-piece models.
From Snapshot9:
Cues can up to a 14mm tip, and lots of Break/Jump cues, or Break cues, or Jump cues have a 14mm tip because a bigger tip is better for Breaking and/or Jumping. Break cues commonly have a Conical taper (also called European) for added stiffness.
A Break/Jump cue is one that is used for Breaking and Jumping with part of butt coming off so that the shorter Jump portion can be used. Jump cues/portions are commonly
40" long, the minimum length they can be.
Leather tips are better for control, but Phenolic tips, which are harder, are better for power and/or lift when jumping. I have a J&J Break/Jump cue with a phenolic ferrule/tip combination that I like a lot, and they can be bought for $60/65 dollars. I used to believe in separate Break cue and jump cue, but the J&J Break/jump changed my mind about that, and a Break/jump combo takes up less space in your case. Phenolic tips do some getting used to though, and almost require a center ball hit.
A standard taper started out 8-10"
A pro taper started out 10-13", now is 13-15"
An European taper is like a long cone shape, with no part of the shaft being the same diameter at any 2 points. (constantly tapers down to the tip).
There is also a straight taper, which a lot of Snooker cues have.
From Wikipedia's pool shaft page: (external web-link)
Shafts are made with various tapers, the two most common being the pro taper and the European taper. The pro taper has the same diameter from the tip to 30–35 cm (12-14 inches) toward the joint, at which point it begins to widen. The European taper widens continually and smoothly from the ferrule toward the joint. Despite their names, the continually sloping European taper is found in most North American bar and house cues, and not all professional players prefer a straight pro taper on their custom, two-piece models.
From Snapshot9:
Cues can up to a 14mm tip, and lots of Break/Jump cues, or Break cues, or Jump cues have a 14mm tip because a bigger tip is better for Breaking and/or Jumping. Break cues commonly have a Conical taper (also called European) for added stiffness.
A Break/Jump cue is one that is used for Breaking and Jumping with part of butt coming off so that the shorter Jump portion can be used. Jump cues/portions are commonly
40" long, the minimum length they can be.
Leather tips are better for control, but Phenolic tips, which are harder, are better for power and/or lift when jumping. I have a J&J Break/Jump cue with a phenolic ferrule/tip combination that I like a lot, and they can be bought for $60/65 dollars. I used to believe in separate Break cue and jump cue, but the J&J Break/jump changed my mind about that, and a Break/jump combo takes up less space in your case. Phenolic tips do some getting used to though, and almost require a center ball hit.
A standard taper started out 8-10"
A pro taper started out 10-13", now is 13-15"
An European taper is like a long cone shape, with no part of the shaft being the same diameter at any 2 points. (constantly tapers down to the tip).
There is also a straight taper, which a lot of Snooker cues have.
How much and in what manner does a cue deform and vibrate during and after a shot?
Here are some excellent super-slow motion videos illustrating cue vibration effects with sidespin shots:
Russian experience with high-speed video of pool cues (external web-link)
HSV A.25 - Cue deflection and vibration due to firm stroke with english
And here are some with follow and draw shots:
Russian experience with high-speed video of pool cues - part 2 (external web-link)
HSV B.9 - Cue deflection and vibration (YouTube)
Here's an excellent article from DBKcues presenting technical results of some experiments on this topic:
Investigation in Some Wave Properties of a Billiards Cue (external web-link)
Some additional examples of accelerometer measurements can be found here:
TP A.9 - Cue accelerometer measurements (Download)
The amplitudes, frequencies, mode shapes, and durations of cue vibration are big factors in determining the "hit" or "feel" of a cue.
Here are some excellent super-slow motion videos illustrating cue vibration effects with sidespin shots:
Russian experience with high-speed video of pool cues (external web-link)
HSV A.25 - Cue deflection and vibration due to firm stroke with english
And here are some with follow and draw shots:
Russian experience with high-speed video of pool cues - part 2 (external web-link)
HSV B.9 - Cue deflection and vibration (YouTube)
Here's an excellent article from DBKcues presenting technical results of some experiments on this topic:
Investigation in Some Wave Properties of a Billiards Cue (external web-link)
Some additional examples of accelerometer measurements can be found here:
TP A.9 - Cue accelerometer measurements (Download)
The amplitudes, frequencies, mode shapes, and durations of cue vibration are big factors in determining the "hit" or "feel" of a cue.
What is the best weight for a cue?
For you main playing cue, use whatever weight feels most comfortable. A heavier cue might be easier for some to keep on line during the stroke, but this is a very individual thing.
Now, for a break cue, the optimal weight for maximum cue ball (CB) speed will depend on your arm anatomy (the size and weights of the different parts of your arm) and muscle physiology (e.g., fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle fiber dominance). The only way to find out the optimal weight for sure is to experiment. Cue weight isn't a question of just physics. Physiology also comes into play. Some people have more fast-twitch muscle fibers than others. Because of this, cue weight selection can be a very personal thing.
Cue and tip efficiency also affect maximum break speed. Phenolic tips can be 10-15% more efficient than typical leather tips. That basically results in 3-4% more cue ball speed (for a given cue weight and speed), which basically results in the object balls traveling 10-15% farther, slightly increasing the likelihood of pocketing a ball.
Other than tip efficiency, what determines CB speed is the cue's momentum at impact, and CB speed is what we are striving for (in addition to accuracy) with a break. Cue momentum is the product of cue mass and cue speed. For a given cue speed, if the cue has more mass, the CB will go faster; and for a given cue weight, if the cue has more speed, the CB will go faster. Both factors (cue speed and cue weight) are important. Some people can generate more momentum with a lighter cue, and some can generate more with a heavier cue.
Here are some examples to further explain the momentum effect. If a person is using a cue of mass (m) can generate a certain speed (v), the speed of the cue ball is directly related to cue momentum (mv). If the same person uses a cue 10% lighter (.9m), he or she would probably be able to generate more cue speed, let's say 5% more speed (1.05v). In this case, the cue momentum (.9m * 1.05v = .945mv) would be about 5% less than with the original cue. If the same person used a cue 10% heavier (1.10m), and generated 5% less speed (0.95v) as a result, the cue momentum (1.10m * 0.95v = 1.045mv) would be about 5% more than with the original cue. In this case, the slightly heavier cue would be better. If, on the other hand, the additional weight resulted in a greater loss in speed, let's say 15% (0.85v), the cue momentum (1.10m * 0.85v = .935mv) would be about 7% less than with the original cue. In this case the original (lighter) cue would be better.
A good analogy to pool break cue weight selection is baseball bat weight selection. A lighter bat can be swung faster, but a heavier bat has more mass. Some players can generate more bat momentum and ball speed (and distance) with a heavier bat (e.g., Babe Ruth), and some do better with a much lighter bat (e.g., Barry Bonds). An excellent webpage dealing with baseball bat weight effects can be found here:Bat Weight, Swing Speed and Ball Velocity. (external web-link)
Notice the ball speed vs. bat weight graphs about 3/4 down on the webpage. They are very flat at the optimal weight, implying bat weight doesn't really make that much difference in the range of typical values. This effect should be similar with break cues. If you are in your preferred weight range, an ounce more or less shouldn't make much difference.
One final note concerning cue weight: There is a limit to how light a cue can be before double hits become a problem, especially with large tip offset shots (e.g., maximum sidespin or draw). If the cue is too light, it will stay in contact with or catch up to the CB after the first hit. For sidespin shots, the result will be similar to that of a miscue (i.e., excessive squirt). For more info, see TP A.30 (Download) and "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part IV: maximum cue tip offset" (Download) (BD, October, 2005).
From pooltchr:
1. I believe the best weight for any player is the weight that feels most comfortable for all types of shots.
2. I believe that different weights can produce slightly different results, but those differences are so slight that most good players can adapt their stroke to get the desired results regardless of the chosen weight.
3. While a long draw shot does require more speed than a shorter one (adjusting speed and or spin is the only way to control draw)we still don't need to use maximum (break) speed even for maximum draw. For that reason, I think any good player can get the required speed with any weight cue. Those same players would be able to adjust their stroke to compensate for the weight differences in various cues.
4. Since over the course of a game, a player will need to vary speed and spin from shot to shot, the most comfortable weight to the individual player makes the most sense to me. It's easier to make slight adjustments to speed and spin with a well balanced comfortable cue. You can establish a centergistic or reference point for a stroke speed follow shot, then work from there to know what is needed when you need to do something else with the cue ball.
For you main playing cue, use whatever weight feels most comfortable. A heavier cue might be easier for some to keep on line during the stroke, but this is a very individual thing.
Now, for a break cue, the optimal weight for maximum cue ball (CB) speed will depend on your arm anatomy (the size and weights of the different parts of your arm) and muscle physiology (e.g., fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle fiber dominance). The only way to find out the optimal weight for sure is to experiment. Cue weight isn't a question of just physics. Physiology also comes into play. Some people have more fast-twitch muscle fibers than others. Because of this, cue weight selection can be a very personal thing.
Cue and tip efficiency also affect maximum break speed. Phenolic tips can be 10-15% more efficient than typical leather tips. That basically results in 3-4% more cue ball speed (for a given cue weight and speed), which basically results in the object balls traveling 10-15% farther, slightly increasing the likelihood of pocketing a ball.
Other than tip efficiency, what determines CB speed is the cue's momentum at impact, and CB speed is what we are striving for (in addition to accuracy) with a break. Cue momentum is the product of cue mass and cue speed. For a given cue speed, if the cue has more mass, the CB will go faster; and for a given cue weight, if the cue has more speed, the CB will go faster. Both factors (cue speed and cue weight) are important. Some people can generate more momentum with a lighter cue, and some can generate more with a heavier cue.
Here are some examples to further explain the momentum effect. If a person is using a cue of mass (m) can generate a certain speed (v), the speed of the cue ball is directly related to cue momentum (mv). If the same person uses a cue 10% lighter (.9m), he or she would probably be able to generate more cue speed, let's say 5% more speed (1.05v). In this case, the cue momentum (.9m * 1.05v = .945mv) would be about 5% less than with the original cue. If the same person used a cue 10% heavier (1.10m), and generated 5% less speed (0.95v) as a result, the cue momentum (1.10m * 0.95v = 1.045mv) would be about 5% more than with the original cue. In this case, the slightly heavier cue would be better. If, on the other hand, the additional weight resulted in a greater loss in speed, let's say 15% (0.85v), the cue momentum (1.10m * 0.85v = .935mv) would be about 7% less than with the original cue. In this case the original (lighter) cue would be better.
A good analogy to pool break cue weight selection is baseball bat weight selection. A lighter bat can be swung faster, but a heavier bat has more mass. Some players can generate more bat momentum and ball speed (and distance) with a heavier bat (e.g., Babe Ruth), and some do better with a much lighter bat (e.g., Barry Bonds). An excellent webpage dealing with baseball bat weight effects can be found here:Bat Weight, Swing Speed and Ball Velocity. (external web-link)
Notice the ball speed vs. bat weight graphs about 3/4 down on the webpage. They are very flat at the optimal weight, implying bat weight doesn't really make that much difference in the range of typical values. This effect should be similar with break cues. If you are in your preferred weight range, an ounce more or less shouldn't make much difference.
One final note concerning cue weight: There is a limit to how light a cue can be before double hits become a problem, especially with large tip offset shots (e.g., maximum sidespin or draw). If the cue is too light, it will stay in contact with or catch up to the CB after the first hit. For sidespin shots, the result will be similar to that of a miscue (i.e., excessive squirt). For more info, see TP A.30 (Download) and "Coriolis was brilliant ... but he didn't have a high-speed camera - Part IV: maximum cue tip offset" (Download) (BD, October, 2005).
From pooltchr:
1. I believe the best weight for any player is the weight that feels most comfortable for all types of shots.
2. I believe that different weights can produce slightly different results, but those differences are so slight that most good players can adapt their stroke to get the desired results regardless of the chosen weight.
3. While a long draw shot does require more speed than a shorter one (adjusting speed and or spin is the only way to control draw)we still don't need to use maximum (break) speed even for maximum draw. For that reason, I think any good player can get the required speed with any weight cue. Those same players would be able to adjust their stroke to compensate for the weight differences in various cues.
4. Since over the course of a game, a player will need to vary speed and spin from shot to shot, the most comfortable weight to the individual player makes the most sense to me. It's easier to make slight adjustments to speed and spin with a well balanced comfortable cue. You can establish a centergistic or reference point for a stroke speed follow shot, then work from there to know what is needed when you need to do something else with the cue ball.
For more info, visit billiards.colostate.edu
